makatakam

Aren't the three lines on the right a list that can be opened? I could be wrong. Please don't shoot me if I am. Just a thought.

Welcome Ian, good to have you on board. Prepare to have some fun and share in our addiction. Any questions you have can and will be answered here. Someone here has probably flown anything you can think of, and then some. Have fun, smile and don't forget to breathe.

There are at least six among the members of IKE, including me, and no one has mentioned any flutter in his/her NYM. I will check with them on the IKE forum to find out if anyone has experienced this and post back here within a week or two.

@jlab -- The vented kite is always smoother than a non-vented. The NYM feels smoother than the comparable B or B-Pro because of the difference in panel layout. The red looks faster than the purple, but in reality flies at the same speed. The lime green, on the other hand, will just smoke them both.

Cool!

I miss living in San Diego all the time, and I've never even been there! My weather app tells me I'd be about 30 degrees happier there just about every day.

Hi, Jlab. Good to have you join in the discussions. How many mph are your "lower wind days"? I own a standard sail NYM, and have flown the standard and the single-vent NYM. They feel a bit smoother than other panel layouts on the 1.5 size sails, and IMHO are a pleasure to fly. However, the three-vent leaves you quite a bit short of an extra-vent, so you may find yourself grounded on days when the wind is over 25 mph. An experienced pilot can fly the single vent down to about 4 mph, and up to about 15 mph without a frame change. Once you start mixing and matching the frames, you can get the standard sail down to about 2.5 mph and up to 20mph, and the three-vent down to about 11 mph and up to 40-something-ish. The factory-given wind range can be stretched in both directions without change, and pushed to extremes with some variation from norm. Unfortunately, there is no "one kite for all wind ranges", so it would help to have more than one in your bag.

Hi, Tina and welcome to the forum.

Hi, Bongo. Welcome to the forum.

Congratulations, Josh. Spank her well.

Sewing is intended for line that has a core since it cannot be spliced like a hollow braid line.

The high-E string from a guitar, bent into a sharp vee, will work very nicely. Just be careful not to stab yourself with the ends. Sharp as a needle.

The grey lines are probably 300#, and the orange lines probably 500#, judging by the thickness. Seriously heavy lines for power foils with seriously heavy pull.

Does the nylon stud screw into a threaded hole? Very slick solution, BTW.

I believe this will be the venting style that will eventually be adopted by Revolution Kites.

I have no experience with Skybond heavier than 50-pound. The individual-strand-style weave in my 50-lb, when I examined it, makes me believe that it will take much patience and more than a couple of tries to develop a method that can be repeated consistently, and the slickness of it would probably require burying at least 12 inches of the tag end to grip well enough not to slip. I think the Speed line has a weave coarseness which is somewhere between LPG and Skybond, but I have zero exposure to the Speed line. If anyone has more insight on this, I would like to know what you think.

Hi, Rochelle, and welcome to the KiteLife forum. Lots of friendly folks here.

Hi, Martin, and welcome to the forum. We are all looking forward to flying with you someday.

Hi, Roger. Welcome to the KiteLife forum. Any questions you have can and will be answered here. Good to have you on board.

Oh, yeeeaaahhhh....

@SHBKF No need, IMHO, for spacing less than 5/8" between the knots on top leaders. If you have three or four knots with 3/8" spacing on the bottoms, you can do the fine tuning there, without having to tie all them knots on top.

Yep, well aware of that. Just so you know, that's 500-lb LPG spectra. Working with the relatively thin 90-lb or 150-lb will not be as easy as working with line that's four or five times thicker. Also they are making bridles from that line that the legs from attachment point to frame normally don't exceed five or six feet in length, so stretch will never be an issue. You can adjust the splice by loosening it, making the adjustment and than re-tightening it. If I need to equalize a flying line in the field, it takes about 10 seconds to tie a knot and shorten the longer line(s). How long will the operation take on the spliced loop? Can it be done easily in the field? Will you lose your fid in the sand or the grass? I don't know, but I'm thinking I'll spend less time flying than I could have. Don't get me wrong, it's a very neat and slick-looking way to make the loop, and if you want to take the time to do it then definitely go for it! I would love to have lines looking that good. I just won't invest the time necessary to do this to 9 sets of quad lines and four sets of dual lines. That's 80 loops to tie and maintain each season. OUCH! There is other maintenance that I need to do each winter to those 13 line sets, 14 Revolution kites and bridles, six or seven home-made quad kites, a few dual-line kites, handles, hardware, etc., etc. And as if that is not enough, I have a few other hobbies that require a bit of time too. Just want you to know what you're getting into. If it's practical for you, do it. I'm not against the idea, just won't work for my purpose. Let us know how it turns out.

How will you equalize the lines once they stretch? Even pre-stretched lines will become unequal in time.

Other option is to send it to Revolution Kites, or to a kite shop that does repairs and have it replaced with new mesh. Of course you'll have to pay to get it done, but it will be as good as new. Or you can sew a new mesh in yourself.

Hi, Chain, and welcome to the forum.