windofchange

Stall Stall Stall Stall......oh yea, then work on the Stall.

We have the Rev Indoor as well as the 1.5 SUL in stock. We also carry a huge selection of replacement rods for all the Rev kites. We also have original Rev bridles in stock. Like for our Rev Replacement Parts Link for the Rev Indoor Link for Rev 1.5 SUL We can also do custom setup's for your Rev - special frames, stacks, etc...

The only difference between the SLE end caps and the 1/4" leading edge end caps is the black rubber washer that keeps the end cap from sliding all the way into the SLE and putting unnecessary wear on your bridle lines. The actual plastic caps are exactly the same. If you plan on changing your EXP from the standard LE to the SLE then just order in the large black rubber washers and leave them on your end caps. That way you can interchange the leading edges without any other changes.

We have authentic Rev stack lines in stock, they are also listed on oline. Rev Parts at A Wind Of Change dot Com Hope this helps!

Ok, I got a question bout the vids. On the Axle, you state that the kite axle's so that it moves into the "Nose Towards You" position as it travles through the Axle. Is this correct? And how do you make the kite axle so that the nose is towards you. In all of my Axle's the nose of the kite is pointing away from me. Makes me wonder if I have been doing it wrong all this time?

A find toothed hacksaw works just fine. A dremmel works good too. Wrap your spar good and tight with a couple layers of masking tape first, this helps keep the splinters down to a minimum and also gives you a nice place to mark the spot you need to cut. After the cut you can roll the cut end of the rod on top of a piece of sandpaper to smooth out the end and help keep any splinters down to a minimum. Hold the rod at a 45 degree angle and give it a spin. For the ultimate, make a small blob of super glue and roll the end of the rod around once to coat it. Not really necessary but it does make a very nice smooth finish. Another trick for sanding the end of your spar is to insert the opposite end carefully into a cordless drill and as it turns, just hold the sandpaper onto the rod and it will sand it for you. This helps keep the sanding uniform around the entire rod and is very easy to do. Be careful to not crush the rod in the jaws of the drill. Hope this helps.

For videos of no wind kites, the only ones that come to mind is the "Lincoln City Indoor Kite Festivals". The link is HERE There are many UL (ultra light) or SUL (super ultra light) kites on the market that will fly in 0 to 5 mph winds. Hope this helps.

Just as long as it isn't disco or polka!

Take a good look at the Acrobatx, this kite is the 2006 kite of the year at KTAI and is capable of nearly eveyr trick you can throw at it. Retail price is around $80.00 ready to fly. I was quite stunned watching Barrassi throw it around at the KTAI show, very impressive for sure! Construction is pretty good on this kite as well, it can take some abuse.

The area you are flying in makes a huge difference on how the kite will perform. Clean wind is a blessing to all kites. When flying around trees, buildings, fences, etc... The wind can be very unpredictable and down right frustrating. What you may not be realizing is that the wind you feel on your back is actually being forced up or down by the time it gets to your kite. This is caused by updrafts or downdrafts from buildings or other obsticals. I met up with one person who was trying desperately to fly his new Revolution and having a huge amount of difficulty. When we were standing at the handles you could feel a very comfortable 6-7 mph wind on our backs, try to launch and the kite would go up and then dump back onto the ground, even I was a little confused. We went to the kite to see if something was wrong but everything looked fine. We both noticed that there was absolutly no wind at the kite but walking back to the handles we could feel wind. Because of the buildings downwind from us, the wind was actually swirling over us and back down onto the field where the kite was and 5 feet up the wind was blowing lightly in the opposite direction. We moved to the opposite end of the park which was much more open and the kite went up fine with no problems. The person thanked me and said it was the first time in over 2 months of trying that they were able to fly the kite, never realizing that it was the surroundings and not himself that was the problem.

The Beetle is my recomendation as well. You just cant seem to hurt that kite. My daughter has bounced it nose first off of the asphalt on a number of occasions (she's 9). Hasn't broken yet.

I would go ahead and adjust your bridle, make sure it has the bridle marked (it should already be there). Bridle adjustment is fairly easy to do and if it screws the kite up then just put it back on the original marks. I was very hesitant at first to adjust anything on my kites but after the first time and finding out just how much of a difference it makes in different winds, nearly every one of my kites have now been adjusted and re-adjusted according to the conditions. Bring the nose forward a tiny bit and see how that works for you.

Tails are pretty fun to play with, but if the wind is light I would suggest taking the tail off. The tail does add drag and weight to the kite and in light winds may be too much for the kite to pull around. If the winds are stronger then the tail can help slow the kite down a little and make it easier to learn on...not to mention it looks really cool. The kite will fly fine without the tail attached and is designed to do so. That's the beauty of getting a professionally designed kite compared to one that is purchased through the wally discount department stores. Have fun and let us know how it turns out for you.

Huge Congrats on the new arrival!!! You better be careful tho...when they get a little older they will take all your kites and you won't have anything to fly!

The Igniter is a very decent beginner kite and should be no problem getting it into the air. If your winds were between 6 and 10 mph it should have gone up with hardly no effort at all. There are a couple things that you may not be aware of that might help you out as you are learning. If you have not yet done so, get yourself a kite stake. This can be something as simple as a screwdriver or stick that is stuck in the ground or you can purchase a dedicated golf ball stake from your local kite shop. The stake will hold your straps for you as you set up your kite. Loop your straps over the stake, walk out your lines and attach them to your kite. Set your kite up, walk the lines back away from the stake until they are taught, then angle in the bottom wing tips of your kite towards your stake and set it on the ground. The stake will hold your kite in that position for you until you are ready to launch. To launch, carefully pick up your straps off of your stake and take a step or two backwards until the kite is standing straight up. With arms fully extended towards the kite and no slack in the lines, give both hands a good solid tug downwards and the kite should jump up in the air and launch. Keep both hands even and the kite should climb to the top of the window. This initial tug to launch can be repeated if the winds are light and will help keep the kite in the air. If the winds are too light for the kite, it will stall and drop back towards the ground. If you have enough wind for the kite but the kite continues to stall and seems to have no forward drive, you may need to adjust the bridles of the kite. We have set up a page to help explain bridle adjustments HERE . Before performing any bridle adjustments, mark your bridles where they are now (this is usually already done from the factory for you). This way you can always adjust your bridles back to the factory setting should something get messed up. The most important thing is to make sure that both bridles (one on each side of the kite) are adjusted exactly the same or your kite will not fly correctly. Another thing to be aware of: make sure that the area you are flying in is a good area for the kite. Trees, buildings, fences, walls, etc... will always effect the way the wind hits your kite. As the wind rolls over trees and buildings, it creates a swirling pattern that can play havoc on your flying. Sometimes you will feel plenty of wind on your back but because of the swirling pattern, there will be absolutly nothing down wind where the kite is or even worse, the wind will be blowing straight down or back towards you. Try to find an area to fly in that is as open as possible with very little obstruction. Even moving 50 feet to the side or another area of a park could be all you need to do. Last note - have patience when you are first learning. It can be frustrating at times but if you take your time and stick with it you will find a sport that can be very rewarding and enjoyable. If at all possible try to find other pilots in your area that fly. Most kiters are very friendly and will have no problem at all giving you some tricks and tips. Check with your local kite store as they would have the best information on other pilots in your area and good places to fly. If that is not an option, continue to post your questions here. There are a ton of very experienced pilots here that are more than happy to help wether you are a beginner or a vetran flyer. Good luck and let us know how you are progressing.

There use to be a lot of days here where our kite club would hit the park and the wind was totally dead. All you could see was a ton of fabric laying on the grass and everyone sitting in chairs waiting for the wind to pick up. Since then I have aquired a Benson Innerspace and no wind days dont bother me at all anymore. Light wind kites certainly have their place and are a necessity if you have limited time to fly and have to depend on mother nature to cooperate. Murphy, I say "HAH" to you and spite you with my flying pleasure!!!

Could you imagine where he would be?

One thing that I have done to help with line tangles and setup is to leave my lines attached to the kite and handles. I don't take them off at all. My procedure for putting the kite away is this: 1) Stake the kite 2) Walk to the kite and take it apart, sliding it into the bag. leave the lines attached and they will run out of the end of the bag towards the stake. 3) Tuck the bag under my arm and start winding about 3-4 inches away from the end of the bag. 4) When I reach the handles, bungee the lines onto the winder and carefully slide the winder into the bag followed by the handles. The handles will not fit all the way into the bag on some model rev's so just leave the very end of the handles poking out, pull the drawstring tight and your good to go. 5) pick up your kite stake! (I sometimes forget this step and have to get a new one next time) Now, to set the kite back up for flight on your next trip out, just reverse the entire process. 1) Put stake into the ground (that is if you didn't forget to do step 5 above) If you forgot to do step 5 above, then get new stake and put that one in the ground, keep the mumbling to a minimum. 2) Carefully remove your handles and winder from the bag, put handles over the stake with the brake lines closest to the stake and top lines laying away, 3) start unwinding your lines, set up the kite, grab the bag and walk back to your stake and launch! In most instances you will have two or three twists in your lines that you can easily take out by turning both handles together. In very rare case you may have to pass one handle through the other but over all, set up and launching is within minutes. Hope this helps!

Progcraft is correct and that is the "normal" way a kite is rigged with a bar.... But, there are some exceptions. If your kite is not really designed to be flown with a bar then it may need to be rigged differently. For instance, the Ozone Fury and Samurai work better with the trailing edge lines hooked together at the center point of your bar and the leading edge lines attached to the outside of the bar. The Ozone bar also has a small pully and line attached at the center of the bar for the brake lines to slide through, which helps increase the turning of the kite. Now the Ozone Frenzy is rigged the "Normal" way with the leading edge lines running to the center. If your kite is like a traditional quad line foil kite then you may find that hooking the trailing edge lines to the center of your bar may give you better control. We have found that the Peter Lynn Rebble / Pepper, the HQ Beamer, Ozone Samurai / Fury / Riot, PKD Buster / Century, Prism Stylus all work better with the trailing edge lines attached to the center of the bar. If you can add in a pully then you may find that it will also help a lot with the steering and control. A really nice thing about this setup is that you can attach a single line leash to the center lines up where your brake lines attach and when you drop the bar or engage your safety release, the brake lines go taught and it kills the kite quite nicely. We carry the Ozone quad line bar and it comes complete with leash, power adjuster strap, fixed loop with quick release, and pully; and have adapted it to quite a few kites with great results. I would recommend that you try hooking up your trailing edge lines to the center attachment point and see if that works better for you. Any experiements you do should be done in light winds with the proper safety equipment in place until you are positive that it will work ok. Hope this helps!

Thats a pretty good site Dorsal, a picture is worth a thousand words for sure! We have been daisy chain'ing our lines for a long time now, especially on our power kites. It makes setup and takedown a zillion times faster and you usually have less line tangles or twists doing it that way. The easiest way we have found to do a chain is to first make a loop in the end of the line where you are going to start your chain, then twist it around once or twice, reach through the loop in the direction you are going to do your chain and pull the line through. Keep pulling until the line goes into a soft knot, this will make your starting loop. Once your starting loop is done then just reach through the loop and pull the line through to make another loop, then reach through that loop and make another loop....keep doing this until you have looped up your entire line. Tie the end off with a loose overhand knot or clip it with a caribiener for storage. If you are looping up a long line then put your kite into the bag and leave it on the ground as you loop the lines up. The light drag of the kite will help keep your loops nice and even while you walk/loop towards your stake. To undo the chain, just unclip (or untie) the loose knot on the front and pull the line, all of the loops should pull out with very little effort. The end loop (the one you twisted and tied to start the chain) may need a little stronger tug but it too will pull right out with very little effort. There is also a way to do a "double loop" that will turn a 100' set of lines into a 15' to 20' chain. This is a little more complicated to explain but once you do it, it is very simple. To do the double loop you start it the exact same way as a single. Make a loop, twist it around and then pull the line through to make the starting loop. Before you reach through to grab the line and pull it through your starting knot, take your other hand and pull the line that you are going to be looping up to the side and then with your first (original) hand, pull the line through the starting loop as normal. What you will end up with is two loops, one in your right hand and one in your left. Alternate pulling the line through the loops with both hands, pull through with your right, then with your left, then with your right...etc. When you get to your stake then just tie both loops together in a very loose bowtie knot. If you have two or even four lines, just treat all four lines as one line and loop them all up at the same time just the same as if there is only one line. They will all go together and pull out without any hassle at all. On my Rev's and dual line kites I will usually just wind those on a winder. The lines on those kites can be very small and I feel better just wrapping them up on a winder instead of looping. Plus they are usually shorter and much smaller in diameter than the power kites or large single line kites so the winders are pretty simple. On my large SLK's with extensive bridle systems the loop system works wonders and keeps all those lines exactly where they can be controlled. Once looped just stuff them inside of a fold of the kite and they are out of the way and tangle free! Hope this helps.

The wind ranges you mention are probably correct. The delta has a 6 foot wing span where the ez flyer is only about 3-4 feet. The larger kite will fly in less wind. That doesn't necessarily mean it is easier to fly in less wind, just that it is capable of being flown with the right technique in those winds. Flying the delta in 3-4 mph winds may take a little bit more work and may not have a huge "fun" factor but it will fly and once it gets into the air it should stay there very well. One thing about super light wind is that if the wind does drop out just a little bit, there is nothing at all to keep the kite in the air. A super steady 3-4 mph wind and the kite should be fine, if it is gusty or has a lot of holes in the wind, it may be frustrating to put up. If the wind is averaging 6-7 mph then no problem with gusts, even in the lulls it should only drop down to 3-4 so you would be fine. The EZ flyers are very easy to fly and they fly extremly well. If the wind is 5-8 mph, both kites should go up in the air without even thinking about it and stay there until you are ready to haul it back in.

After you re-tie the line and cut off the excess, you may want to hit it quickly with a cigarette lighter to keep the spectra line from freying out. Same can be done on the dacron sleeve if it has not been done already. Make sure not to get the flame on the section of line you are going to keep or it will damage it.

Consistant 0 to 3 mph winds would drive me absolutly crazy. I have been spending a lot of time on the Benson Innerspace and the Premier Vapor when the winds are not cooperating properly. I also have an Indoor Rev that I really should spend a lot more time on than I do. Light wind flying is possible and can be very enjoyable...but we have a lot more good wind days than dead wind days here. If you ever get the chance to head on out here to Vegas I will love to go out flying with you. Between the two of us we should have any wind condition mother nature throws at us covered! I got the vented's and SLE's, you take care of the ultra lights. Bring plenty of sun block cuz we'll be out on the flying field for hours!

Got my Custom Rev, stuck in the SLE leading edge (I have both the standard and the SLE), flew the crap out of it in winds that were ranging between 12 and 22 mph. The kite flew awesome, crashed it a couple of times kinda hard but it popped right back up in the air with no damage at all, everyone loved the custom graphics, everyone had a fun time taking turns flying it, and we all had a wonderful time. I would suggest that they dont change a thing on it at all!!!

Everyone had to learn at one time. Best advice I can give is to just stick with it. If possible, try to fly in lighter winds than in heavier winds. Lighter winds are much easier to learn some of the more advanced tricks than in strong winds. Lighter winds are usually easier on your kites as well, especially when the trick goes sour. As everyone here has mentioned, a half hour with someone next to you stepping you through the tricks will take months off of your learning curve. When I was learning the axle, I was doing everything perfectly correct.....just doing it at the wrong time in the wrong place in the window and it was baaad!!! Within 5 minutes with someone who knew what they were doing telling me when to do the axle, I was pulling off axle's left and right with no problem at all and it all "finally" started to click together. Other tricks started to flow and I finally began to connect with the kite and the wind. The kite you are flying does make a difference. Each kite seems to have its own personality and will do a couple of tricks exceptionally easy but may put up a fuss when doing others. New Tech produces some fine kites and should be perfectly fine for your progress. I wouldn't recommend purchasing a high dollar kite until you do get some of the more advanced tricks mastered. No reason to destroy a $300.00+ kite when your learning, especially when there are kites out there at a fraction of the cost that are capable of the same tricks. Once you do master the basics and are not pile driving the kite into the ground, one of the high dollar specialty kites will be a dream come true to fly...and in my case has made me look a lot better than I really am! (I absolutly love my Deepspace) Shorter lines will also let you feel the kite more directly and line quality makes a huge difference as well. Cheap lines are not nearly as strong as high quality lines and will give you a spongy type of feel. Think of it like putting balloon style garbage tires on a high performance F-1 racecar. Shorter lines will speed the kite up a bit, but it makes it so that you dont have to walk nearly as far when you need to stand your kite back up after a crash. Less time walking and more time flying is always good. I love Laser Pro Gold line or Shanti line. Both of those are 100% spectra with a very tight weave and almost zero stretch. Usually you will never need anything stronger than 150# spectra (depending on the kite of course). Most of the time I am flying on 90# 70-80 foot lines. If you are breaking 150# line then I can only assume that your lines were either damaged by a sharp rock or something, or that you are flying a very large kite with a lot of power, or that you are flying in very strong winds. If it is the strong winds option then tricking in those winds will be very difficult to do and that may be what is limiting your learning curve. There are a ton of pilots on this forum that are much better at flying than I am and would have tons more experience than I do on learning. These are just some of the things that I remember struggling with when I was learning and hope they help you out. Theres tons of experience on this forum so keep reading and know that the advice you get here will be spot on and very valuable. Hope this helps!