makatakam

Find out everything LeMasters knows and you will know everything.

I had a fractured axle once and it put my car in the ditch.

Let the top lines out all the way to the last knot. If they are already out on the last knot, bring the bottom lines in toward the handles. Tie extra knots in the bottom leaders closer to the handles if necessary. You should be flying with at least 5.5 inches of differential between the top and bottom. Most experienced flyers will use 6.5 to 8.0 inches, depending on conditions. The extra brake you create by letting the top lines out and bringing the bottoms in helps tame the beast quite considerably.

@Koobecaf Uoykcuf That knot on the bridle of the Premier Addiction that you mentioned is called a Prusik knot. It is just a bit confusing the first time you play with it. Google it first and watch a video of how it is meant to work before you go changing it. It is very commonly used in kiting to make the lengths of bridle legs quickly and easily adjustable.

Still no Rev forum.

It is a damn good-lookin' and stylish 404! I like the carbon-fiber look of it.

Consider using nylon screws -- won't fray the leader as quickly as metal, possibly not at all.

I hate stuff on the ground that snags your lines. Dead, dried-up vegetation is the worst, especially on beaches.

Drywall/other anchors come in a variety of sizes. You only need to find the one that fits properly.

Hi, Poppy, and welcome to the forum. All the things you'll want to know can be found here. It's good to have you on board.

Diamond wheel is very good and fast. Makes for a super clean cut.

Hi, Rob, and welcome to the forum. It's good to have you with us. Have you been flying a while, or are you just starting out?

I'm in. I almost got to fly one once.

Hi, Jaramir, and welcome to the forum. Check the map here too, for more flyers near you.

You shouldn't -- at least not on this forum. Although there are lots of quad-line flyers here, the number of DLK and SLK flyers is greater than that, and most of the guys that fly Revs also fly dual and single-line kites too. This forum is a great place for anyone who flies kites of any kind.

Pool noodles, pipe insulation, packing foam -- razor-sharp blade, 30 seconds, voila, all done.

Yup, the way you dump all the pressure from the sail is to step forward and move your hands suddenly forward at the same time. This is how you set up for certain moves and/or tricks to make them crisp and dramatic. Without dumping the pressure the move is only a continuation of previous motion. The stall gives it its own life. Also known as "whump".

Yeah, I've done a couple like that. Drill from the inside to the triangular hole. Knot inside the cap, pulled as tight as it can get so that it fits inside the tube. Losing all that bungee = 3/4 ounce less weight.

Hey, Nick, if you're going to be in the Chicago area PM me and maybe we can get together to fly.

If they were already set up as an 8-stack by an experienced flyer, then you should be all set, and the frame on the first kite should be strong enough to support the pull of the kites behind it. I would go 13" or 11" handles, leaning towards the 11's unless you have very strong forearms. With that much sail area involved the stack has the leverage advantage over most pilots, i.e., lots of strength needed to hold inputs. I would use line at least 200#, but would prefer 250# to be on the safe side in case you catch a bad gust. A broken line on an 8-stack will create an incredibly tangled mess of kites, lines, etc. Post pictures and video. Sounds like it's gonna be fun.

Get together with drdemonx if you can. He can help you get past the "ouch" stage of your learning curve, and can tell you the best areas where you can fly. Kites normally require some adjustments to fly properly for any given conditions, and an experienced flyer's advice on set-up is worth it's weight in gold. It will save you much frustration. Most importantly, have fun, smile and don't forget to breathe.

Hi, Tdowns, and welcome to the forum. Anything you want to know about kites can be found here. This is your final warning though. If you get a Rev, you will like it. Have fun, smile, and don't forget to breathe.

Reflux, John, Reflux. Right over the top on that one, as in acid reflux. Medicine, soldering -- get it it?

Splitting from the inside has crossed my mind. The leading edge is ferruled on the inside, and the part inside the tube is longer = greater leverage. I understand how pounding concrete and asphalt might increase how quickly the tubes may splinter. Best way to find out would be a field test. The rods can also be reinforced to keep them from splitting, and I believe that they already are somewhat beefier at the ends. I would worry more about the endcaps themselves, since they are designed for weight reduction, although Delrin, the material they are made from, is pretty tough stuff. They are very pricy at about $90.00 per set for the four sets I had made. Most of that cost was the set-up and changes to the CNC programming to get them right, so the price should drop for subsequent runs, although I don't foresee them coming in at any less than $40.00 per set. Isn't Rev using something similar on the Reflex? There is not as much bungee to absorb shock from hitting the ground, so not recommended for beginners, because the tension is concentrated in a single direction. From other home-made kites I have I can testify that the hole will "weller" out much faster than the stock set up. Again this can be prevented by a bit of reinforcement at each of the six attachment holes on the sail. I can send you a set to beat on if you want to test them.