hyzakite

I may not have a green race frame left, if not I will ship with a 3wrap frame. I will be shipping again shortly.

I have one left and will start shipping again soon.

Congrats SkyPuppet, I hope it comes with some wind that you rarely get!

I guess it's something I can just ignore by clicking on the x. And I'm wondering if I did select open I might see the SITE SPONSORS which has been blank for about the same amount of time I've been receiving the .json messages. And if I did click open I would see more things on this site. So I guess all is good and is nothing to worry about.

So what is that web site you have in your post? I think my pc is just asking me if I want to open or save certain sites. I'm not sure what internet explorer I have, I think it might be 11. But even when I tried to open malwarebytes it asked me if I wanted to open or save that site. So I didn't do anything, I just left the site.

Actually this time it's asking me if I want to open, save or cancel VDYPR8EE.json , I don't do anything and it stays at the bottom of my screen. But I'm thinking json must have something to do in this site, it's not there in other sites I visit.

Ok, at the bottom of my screen comes a yellow long box that says "Do you want to open or save 5FGZEEFW.json from kitelife.com?" That's what is in the yellow box at the bottom of my screen. On the right side of the box it has choices to open save cancel and an x just to remove that message, but if I click on or try to move further in the site a new box opens and asks me if I want to open or save the .json stuff from kitelife. To me the ".json" is the constant while the letters and numbers before the .json changes. So to me the .json came from somewhere that only appears at the kitelife website. So someone must know something about .json and why it's showing up as a choice to open or save. or cancel. I just leave it on the screen, But I want to know why it's happening lately. I know there is some computer wizkids here that know what's happening. What is .json and why am I being confronted with the question to open save or cancel this file?

To me browsers are browsers, this .json stuff with numbers and letters before the dot is catch 22, what is this dot json stuff only on kitelife? Keep in mind, I'm old old school, we use to have party line telephones!

Lately, as in the last couple of days, when I visit Kitelife a pop-up at the bottom of my screen appears. It asks me if I want to open or save "a bunch of numbers and letters followed by .json What and why is that happening? It's annoying to say the least.

The other day my spam folder received an email from Rev or what could be "not" from Rev, at that point I was afraid to open it, not knowing where it was really from. Does anyone know if Rev changed their email from what it was in late 2014?

I haven't seen anything about size, but mixing the leading edge tubes 2 1.5 outer tubes with a rev1 center, or a 1.5 center and 2 rev1 outer tubes would both make the size bigger than a 1.5 and smaller than a rev1 without changing to new tube sizes. I didn't see/hear much of this kite until now, sounds interesting, I thought the black edges of the kite was making it more responsive by stiffening up the material a little until Wayne mentioned springs, which means moving parts to me, I already know how sand and end caps don't mix too good, I wonder how sand and moving parts mix? Sounds like something PLM should put through its paces!

I think a lot of photos you see might be "photo shoots" of peoples kites and not necessarily left that way most of the time. As far as "is it better" that depends on what you are doing with the kite, flying it = it's better if it's setup, shipping it = it's better if it's folded up in the bag. I leave some revs and wind generators setup during the warm months and bring them in at night, some of my SLK's I'll leave outside on their lines and anchors where they landed that night, some will self launch again, and some I'll have to launch the next morning. Everyone has a different situation and reason.

As far as verticals, I actually use the 5 Zen tubes that came with the kite. On my other revs I will use different vertical tubes to speed up or slow down the kite by the added weight or lack of it. Other than that, the verticals merely maintain the shape of the kite to me. Like Wayne, I switch Revs often but will switch out the verticals to adjust the speed, there's been times that I've mismatched verticals because a 3 and a 4wrap was laying there and the 2wraps was a bit too light. I guess, what I'm suggesting for vertical tubes is #1 = use ones that fit in the end caps. #2 = use ones that make you happy to be outside enjoying yourself. Ron, you got it under control.

I'm thinking as long as you have complete set and 8 weeks, is to spend 7 1/2 weeks on the B2 then jump back into a 1.5B. You'll have a good start on how the Zen will feel by comparing the slowness, lack of response, rubbery feeling the 1.5B has compared to the B2 you became use to for 7 1/2 weeks. You'll probably want to start with longer than 50' lines and more forward than you are use to with the smaller revs. If you have too much reverse you'll have a harder time steering it. It's a heavy kite compared to the 1.5's. Once you get use to the steering it will fly pretty in the sky. You can get 36' Sky Shark tubes for it cheap enough, to play with different frame combos.

I was kidding about testing the strength of the lines. But naturally new lines are thicker at the weight gets higher. However as lines get used the braids tighten and loosen, they become fatter by use, then they get even fatter as they collect dirt and moisture. If the wind was steady enough and the line length was the same, the higher weight lines would droop/arch deeper than the lighter weight lines. Best thing if you haven't used the lines yet is stake them out and actually measure and equalize them and write your length on the label, as for the weight just assume the thickest is the heaviest. As for a blast on 35's personally I wouldn't dream of doing that, 78's and plenty of reverse is my speed, and 17mph winds is full vent flying for me.

Labels on winders mean very little. I mostly use prism winders for my laser pro lines. So I have a bunch of laser pro winders with labels that are empty and collecting dust. A broken 35' line has little to do # test, did all 4 lines break in the same spot? Did only 1 line break? Most likely the line had a flaw in it at the breaking point. Remember flying/landing on house roofs might look cool, but, if a line snags just a little on a shingle or a gutter mount, the test has been compromised, rocks, stones, even a broken finger nail will lower the test if your line snags on it. There is a lot of kite fliers that weigh 180# or less that 2 90# lines should pick us up. Being that there is no real standard in the fishing line industry, I'm sure the same no real standard holds true in the kite line industry for actual test #. However, there is a way of testing the breaking point of your lines, but to do that, you must break each line that you really need that test information on. Be sure to share the results with us!

I did that once but was unable to do it again. But, by going to the url address and removing the stuff in front of the word photobucket I was able to get to the file. On another note, mesh failure is usually caused by abuse, like in the ol' days doing J-marks on the street was cool, as is doing dive stops or flic-flacks with a rev. But what is really happening to the kite? Sudden changes in direction has stress somewhere or another. The weakest link in that event is the mesh. Kinda like what happened to people in the wild west when they got caught stealing horses, they did a dive stop permanently, it wasn't good for the body, why do it to your kite? Another complaint is the fold points on the rev being tough on the mesh, but in fact, the fold points are merely a mind set. There is nothing in the rule books that state you must fold a kite in the same place over and over again. You can actually take the sticks out of the kite and crumple the kite into a ball if you want to. There isn't any rules that state the kite must go into a sleeve, take the sticks out and toss the kite in the trunk of the car, toss it on the back seat.

I know there is a way of clicking on the picture to get to the other pictures in that folder. I received those kites already built, but I believe the perforated material is purchased that way. I've had the kite for several years and there is no wear on the material, I believe it is a light weight Cordura. I know there is real good mesh on the market, but buying it is another thing. The blue mesh swimming pool skimmer bags are made out of is well made mesh and marine grade mesh used on yacht screened rooms and windows that holds up very well.

Anyway this is one of my leading edges.

If anyone ever looked at their Rev 1.5 rods and seen a rub mark at 19" or 12" depending on which end you measure from, they have a hole on the inside of the leading edge caused by the vertical end cap. If anyone doesn't have those rub marks their leading edge rods, the kite is only a few months old or the kite isn't flown much. I find that the end cap method damages the leading edge too fast, that's why rev uses the Kevlar pad in that area, to prevent further damage, most people that never see damage even though it is there, it's out of sight out of mind. I think Steve's idea of using the pocket might prevent the damage, and replacing a pocket is easier than replacing a complete leading edge. Only time will tell. Keep checking for those marks on the leading edge rods, folks.

Nice looking kite! I keep looking at the pocket and wonder if it's a better idea than the end cap method. I know the end cap method is the fastest wear area on a Rev, where the LE frame crosses the vertical end cap. Rev uses a small Kevlar pad in that area but rubs through the leading edge material in no time, it can't be seen because it happens on the inside of the leading edge, but you know it when you see the area on the leading edge rods/tubes where there is a worn rub around it. I'm wondering if your pocket will eliminate that wear. But I'm also wondering if not having the end cap bungee method will put the vertical rod/tube end too close to the leading edge rod edge and possibly crushing the end of the vertical tube. Probably not with the extra cushioning of the vinyl screw thread protectors. To me, it looks like a better mouse trap has been built. If you need someone to put it through its paces you can ship it my way.

Yes, Like shirt button thread, If it's a Carhart shirt button yes. However, If it's a Jelly Bean baby clothes shirt button, probably not. It's repairing flimsy mesh/screen material, you need to be careful both vertically and horizontally. That's why you're just weaving through the square holes, not yanking and pulling. The repair is just to keep it from spreading, that's why the crazy glue method repair. It isn't the best, isn't the worst method. It just reminds you how not to repeat how it was damaged in the first place, and it works until you have the means to start from scratch again, repair or replace. There is this screen material used for swimming pool skimmers / bags, the color is blue, and the skimmer bag holds a bunch of wet leaves with weight! That material doesn't separate so easy. My rev1 stack has marine grade mesh, enough of that stuff. As far as replacing your bridle, the left and right verticals are the same per its kite, the horizontal is standard as well. Replicate each of the 3 pieces, 2 being the same, third being the horizontal piece. And, you've made a bridle!

Not the same as a door or window screen. What kind of thread do you have laying around? Polyester, just weave it in and out of the mesh lightly from the leading edge to the sail, and back and forth along the 1/2" rip. The mesh can only take so much sudden direction changes or folding back and forth before something gives. I have a favorite rev that probably has 8" total of mesh failure, I'll probably fly it for a few more years before I worry about not being able to fly it ever again. The mesh has a 16 thread count, just borrow a 1"x1" piece from your neighbor's window screen, and piece it in.

My mistake on the rip! It was actually 1/2" straight line rip, in the first post, 3 line from the bottom. Sorry about that, my eyes aren't what they use to be!