Wayne Dowler

Confirmation of tomorrow's delivery in my email!!! I'm not hyperventilating, really I'm not!!!

I guess I meant no special discount codes or anything like that. Just discounted on their catalog.

No thread - go to ITW, it is discounted in their online catalog.

Got notice it has been shipped!!! Should be here on Thursday ............. DROOL!!!

Think it is an Acrobatx in the UL form. Not 100%, but I think I got this from the other posts.

Don't be alarmed, the Kymera was designed to be a bit "old school" and be noisy. John wanted some sound, rather than silent like most newer kites.

Didn't ask about the Jinx (way out of my price range), sorry. I've seen only a couple up here in the PNW, nice stuff!! PS: I've been flying since 1989, so I've flown pretty much every type of kite made. Been into quads after a stroke and a member of 2 teams. But dualies really got me started on this kiting journey!!!

Keeping an eye on this and any updates: just picked up a Hydra yesterday from ITW. Waiting on the mail now! First dual line I have bought in 15 years! Recent festival using my Prism Ozone, got my itch up - needed scratching!!! Did chat with Paul de Bakker about his thoughts on the kite - he felt they have done a good job making this as he designed it. So now I wait .........!

Rather "high" altitude ya got there.........lol!!!

but the "Darkside" offers milk and cookies!!!!

Dacron is sold mostly for SLKs, in many strengths and lengths. Lines are the only "Physical" connection to the kite!!!!

Stay away from polyester, nylon, or dacron lines for stunt kites. Stick to spectra lines - LPG (Laser Pro Gold), Shanti Speed, or Shanti SkyBond. Andy at Ocean Shores Kites also markets his own brand - (still spectra). Good kite line is expensive because of the material used and the quantity needed. The weave is much tighter in good line, giving you a better connection to the kite. Poor quality lines almost feel like it takes forever to get the kite to do what you asked of it. Just remember - your lines are the only connection you have to the kite - don't skimp on them!!

for some reason I'm thinking this was meant somewhere else??

If learning, I would suggest that the lines be long - 60' - 80'. Reaction time for the flier increases with longer lines. Put the kite on short lines and everything happens at light speed! Are your flying skills up to that challenge? PS: the kite doesn't go any faster on short lines, but covers the wind window in no time. Therefore giving the appearance of going faster!

The major reason I'm on there was because of kiting. So much more info and discussion of events. But as it is, has become more than that now. It has become my social outlet. Good or bad, not sure.

Old black race frames have only a silver label and say race. Newer race frames have a green band at the top and bottom of the silver label. As was said - not sure if they are being made now, or if everything has shifted to the 5/16" rods (Reflex system).

May I make this suggestion: Move your race frame to the standard and the 3 wrap to the full vent. Reason: You never know what the winds are like at the bottom of the wind range and I feel the race frame is a little more versatile. You know if the wind is up and a F/V, 3 wrap combo, should work pretty well. All IMHO! I tend to use frame/sail combos, rather than frame changes, especially on the beach in windy conditions. I have favorite setups for each sail and will switch sails rather than frames. Just what works for me ....YMMV!

16 mph = FV with 3 wrap frame.

Lived in Rhode Island as a kid, I've seen the damage they can do. Stay safe!

Has anyone tried 3 or 4 wrap Rev rods in those caps? The ones that Bazzer uses are metric and will not use Rev rods in the 3 or 4 wrap size. You might get them on, but almost impossible to get off. 3 or 4 wraps will fit if you take a 5/16" drill bit and carefully ream them out. No issues with SkyShark.

YEAH!!

From the pix it looks like it might be several things. 1 - Your wingtip tension is uneven. Is it possible you've tightened one side more than the other? If it came that way, try undoing the tips and re tension after making sure you have all spars fully in place. Do not overtighten! You are trying to get rid of most of the creases, but don't pull so tight it adds more. 2 - Is it possible the top spreader is too short? It should hold the top of the sail out fully, yours looks a bit "collapsed". None of my dual line kites show this kind of "wear", and they are 15 to 20 years old. Massage the nose to get the spine and LE to properly line up, then put in the top spreader and see if it will help hold shape. Remember to fully insert spreader. 3 - Measure from both the top and bottom of the leading edge to confirm that the fittings for both sides of the top and bottom spreaders are the same distance on the leading edge. If off, they would contribute to the asymmetric look of your sail. Just some ideas to check ....

The trick line does not need to be tight, just snug. I have one on my Flexifoil Stranger that is that way. It is from the mid '90s. My trick line lays in a nock for the sail tensioner. Trick line first, tensioner second, that way the tensioner holds it down. Don't retie the bridle - there should be a mark on it indicating "neutral". You should be able to slide your bits up or down, using the mark as an indicator of how far you have moved. Closer to the nose to pull forward, closer to the tail to lean it back.

Sounds like too far out on top. Still need some drive. Most find their sweet spot somewhere near the middle of the top leader.

I'd echo makatakam - learn a bit of control and how the kite works, before going short. Once you get sure of yourself, there are lots of choices on length. Personally I like 50', close enough to fit in most places, but still has a pretty big window to fly in. I really like them on my Zen. But that is a bigger kite than the 1.5. 30' is another common length, probably the most often used. I even have 20' and 15' sets for no room flying. Lots of old sets get chopped down to make more. You will see. Indoors, I fly 10' x 90# by choice. Little extra weight of the 90# helps get the lines out of the way during some tricks. My set of 50# x 120' were made by me. I bought a spool of 900' and made several sets from that. But do your math before you start chopping!! Figure out the length needed for each set, before you cut!