makatakam

It is a trade-off of durability versus performance. I like sleeving at the handle end to take the abuse of making multiple adjustments I make as the wind or my need changes while flying, and no sleeving at the kite end so it helps reduce the weight the kite must lift. The wear at the kite end is limited to setting up and breaking down most of the time. Unless wind conditions change a lot I'll keep flying the same kite until I get tired of it. If wind is variable I may have two kites set up and fly the one more suited to the immediate wind.

Input first, then load the sail while maintaining the same input. Input next move, load sail while maintaining input. In low-wind flying there is a delay in the timing that will come naturally if you strive to maintain the loading, and each successive time you load the sail.

Or, you could just skip the sleeving and about an hour and a half of agony, which, once you've sleeved a few sets is only 30 minutes of agony. But you can skip it all by skipping the sleeves. Just remember that the flying line is no longer protected by the sleeving or as easily handled when it's cold out so take appropriate action to compensate for these characteristics.

Hi, Andrew, and welcome to the forum. I look forward to sharing the flying field with you someday. I have owned and flown two line foils before, but I have not owned or flown either of the two you are considering, so I can't give you any meaningful information about them. I have seen and heard of the Synapse frequently on this forum and elsewhere quite frequently, but this is the first time I have ever heard of the Radsail, so I Googled it and took a look. It is made by a company that makes power foils and in the 2m size is probably intended as a training kite for that purpose. It appears to be well-made by a company that specializes in power kites. The Synapse, as most foils in that size range can also be used as a trainer for that purpose. This is the limit of what I can tell you about them, but many others on this forum are very familiar with at least one if not both of them and I'm sure they will chime in soon with more information. Have fun, smile and don't forget to breathe. P.S. -- Admin may move this question and replies to a more appropriate location for this topic. If so, we will be informed where it was put.

Congratulations!

Congratulations, Leslie.

Also, the first time out with your Rev, dinner and a movie is good. Just remember to leave it in the car or people will think you're weird.

Kite festivals generally draw quad flyers, so there is a good chance to run into some there and get some person to person instruction and someone who can check that all things are properly adjusted to make learning as easy as possible. That said, watch all the beginner videos available to you on this forum again and again until you are sick of watching, and then watch them all again several more times. Regard them as gospel. They are tried and proven and if followed closely will put you in control in a relatively short time. Remember that some folks just click with it but others don't, so you may not progress as quickly as you had expected. Assuming you have consumed the videos enough times to make you vomit, now comes the part where you go out to fly. Be very selective regarding the wind in which you will be learning. Gusty wind that changes direction a lot or dies and reappears, or is less than 5mph or more than 12mph will only serve to frustrate you. You can't learn anything when the wind won't let you, so don't waste time in garbage wind. Go pursue another of your interests and wait for the good wind. In good wind you should have some basic control over the kite in 5-10 hours of flying. In lousy wind you still won't have it after 40 hours. Patience is everything. Of course, at a festival you can draw on the experience of others in wind that isn't exactly great and still learn. Before you even attach lines to kite or handles make sure your lines are of equal length. Whichever line is shorter than the others will make the kite want to go in the direction of the part of the kite to which it is attached. You will wonder why the kite wants to turn without you telling it to. If all your lines are different lengths, you don't stand a chance of control. They should all be within 1/4" of each other in length. Remember to have fun, smile and don't forget to breathe.

You might be definitely are a kite nut if you're on this forum.

Mesh is intended for wind that is strong enough to collapse the frame on a standard sail. The mesh area(s) allow a percentage, large or small by design, of the wind to pass through the sail. This can greatly reduce the pressure of the wind pushing against the sail, usually to a safe or at least comfortable level. In other words the kite won't drag you down the field and slam you into a brick wall at the other end. It also dampens any other effects the wind has on the kite, such as gusts, change of direction, etc. It will take stronger wind to launch and fly it than it would a standard sail.

Go with the SUL for light wind and your area of the country in general. You will need to put in a couple dozen or more hours with the quad to learn control basics (about the same amount of time it took to learn basic control of the dual) before you start feeling comfy in very light wind. The weight of the SUL can be further reduced if you find the need to. However, make no modifications until you have at least 40 hours on the quad in very light wind. Light wind flying is itself an art that takes some time to master. Your inputs will need to be honed to a keener edge. If you intend to only fly it when you can't fly the Quantum, then you'll be ok. If you want to fly a quad in the same wind as your Quantum you will need one that is a step up from the SUL, or at least a heavier frame to use with the SUL sail.

Remember that any material or hardware you add to an ultralight kite will make it heavier. It kind of defeats the purpose of making it ultralight in the first place. Unless you have lots of opportunity in low wind conditions, the kite will not get a lot of wear. Fly the kite and before you begin check the amount of wear already present before you add reinforcements. An ultralight bridle, if it doesn't already have one, would help performance. Whatever you decide, don't overthink it and be sure to have fun!

Make it red. Freak people out.

Just go there! You'll see.

Wayne, you should go take a look around. You may find something else that's interesting. It's not Polish, but the colors are right.

Monthy Python and the Holy Grail, M*A*S*H, My Cousin Vinnie, The Hunt for Red October, and One Flew Over the Cuckoo's Nest. (And you thought you were crazy? Not even close! Benny and Joon belongs somewhere on that list too.)

.... if your better half is a kite bolt!?

Have you tried replacing the pixie dust? The original may be worn out -- it has a 3-year half-life when exposed to kites -- or it may have come from a weak batch when it was made. I have 1-quart jars available at $49.95 USD + shipping . This will last the average flyer a lifetime as long as it is properly stored. Also available in 1-pint containers at $29.95 USD + shipping for the weekend warriors. I've had it available in 55-gallon drums for the pros but never had a taker. The dust I sell is 100% full-strength undiluted pixie dust with no additives. Guaranteed to get your kite higher than it's ever been. Sprinkle just a pinch between the spar and tail and you're good to go.

But wait -- It gets even better! Hi, Cosa, and welcome to the forum. Tell us a bit about yourself and your experience with kiting. If you need help with anything involving kites, you're in the right place. It's good to have you on board. I look forward to flying with you some day. Have fun, smile and don't forget to breathe.

I Googled iflite kite and looked at the images. Plenty of photos that I think will be helpful, both framing and bridle.

Hey, Todd. You need to edit that to read seamstress. A sewer carries away waste water and such. And do it quickly before she sees it! 😀😁😂🤣

Yes. Figure proper tension at about 1/3 to 1/2 between zero and completely stretched. Should be approximately the same amount for all six points around the sail. Of course, the ones opposite each other naturally equalize. You just need to keep the bungee lengths on the left about equal to those on the right to keep the sail centered on the frame. If you have more sail on one side of the frame, that side of the kite will want to move faster than the other. I think the Djinn will be available in about 3 weeks and probably in all versions, but I'll let JB definitively clue us in on that.

Did she let you fly it too? Good looking kite. The sharpie will fade with time, but the memory won't.

Thanks for keeping the karma going, John.

Next time out just put the bottom lines on top. They will stretch and pretty much equalize after a few flying sessions. You can check as you go. Tighten the bungees on the verticals on the top (leading edge) first so you can keep the top endcaps sticking out no more than 3/8 of an inch, a 1/4 inch to flush being ideal. This way there will be less sticking out to catch on stuff when you are sliding while inverted. Dive stops are a gas, aren't they?! Try pushing both arms towards the kite briskly when you hit the brakes. This will take the bounce out of the equation and give you a true dead stop. So many things to improve your skills. That's what makes it a lifetime learning situation and a lifetime of fun.