makatakam

The Supersonic (and all the Speed Series) is a special critter. You put the vertical spars into the top caps and then swing them over to the back side. This puts a curved "rollover" leading edge on the kite once all four uprights are installed. It's supposed to look like that. Think airfoil shape. This also eliminates the air dam created by the leading edge spar on normal Revs while the kite is flying in reverse which reduces drag enough to make the kite nearly as fast in reverse as it is in forward. Use plenty of brake until you get used to this beast. It has moves you didn't anticipate. It also does some interesting things that regular Revs don't. Type supersonic into the search bar and read about it. If you want to learn to do circles leading with the tip, both inside and outside, this is the kite for it.

Don't know how I missed this post, but I did. Welcome to the forum, and as BobL said, you're gonna fit right in as if you had always been here. You've had them a month -- have you tried them yet?

Welcome to the forum.

Welcome to the forum and the dark side. (Quads) Definitely attend the Treasure Island Festival. There will be lots of folks there who can help reduce your learning curve. One thing you need to know is that a quad-line kite is a completely different critter and not as easy as it looks in the videos, but once you get the basics down you may forget about your dual-line kites for a bit. Flying in any direction while the kite is in any position is more than fascinating; it is addicting. Have fun, smile and don't forget to breathe.

painful or laborious? I guess with two rotating tip stabs that possibility exists. 🤣

The best comparison would be to say that comparing a Rev to a Fulcrum is like comparing an apple to a lemon. If you put some lemon juice on the apple it won't turn brown and rot -- whatever that means. Apples are better with a bit of lemon applied?

If you plan to never fly anywhere but SLC you're fine. I'm sure you get winds over 20mph a few times each year. If you want to fly then without wrecking your equipment you'll want to have a full vent in your bag. Granted, it will stay in your bag most of the time, but when you need it and don't have it . . . . I have 14 Rev kites and several home-made quads, not to mention dual and single line kites. Most of them don't see the light of day as often as they should, but when the occasion presents itself, or I'm just in the mood, I have what suits the situation.

Does it also happen when going counterclockwise? If so it's just your mind not wrapping itself around being inverted yet, assuming your lines are equalized and everything about the kite and bridle is symmetrical. If everything with the kite and lines is good, just give it a bit of time. It will just "click" by itself. Practice inverted hovers and doing figure eights as sloooooooooowwwwwwwwwwwwwllllllllllly as possible, especially vertically, and slow circles and tip circles/pivots in both directions. That should help. Add more brake to slow the jumpiness of the kite down to a manageable level.

I recommend a full vent. A Djinn if it doesn't break the bank.

Welcome to the forum and Merry Christmas.

Prusik knot I believe.

Great pun!!!! Welcome to the forum.

Congratulations.

Wouldn't they also have something for sport kiters? If you have renters' or homeowners' insurance I believe your agent can up the limits of your personal liability coverage for a very modest sum.

Welcome to the forum.

Welcome to the forum.

Welcome to the forum.

Exactly -- but since longer handles will amplify input, if you are looking for precision as one would in competition, you must realize that any "mistake" you make will be amplified as well. That's why a beginner flying in light wind will tend to fall out of the sky more often when using longer handles. Again, as with all other facets of kite adjustment it becomes a compromise. You make the choice depending on what you need versus what you prefer and usually settle for something in between. Once you know that there are several of these extremes that can be adjusted independently, you begin to make significant advancements towards pilot proficiency. Understanding this and implementing the knowledge accordingly is the difference between intermediate and advanced. Just being able to feel the change an adjustment makes is the difference between novice and intermediate.

It really depends on your level of experience. If you have not yet reached the "intermediate" level you won't notice any difference at all. If you have you may notice some but will have to alter the inputs because the additional length accentuates the inputs so you'll have to tame them down, but the length also gives you added throw distance as a lever. You'll probably fall out of the sky at first, but once you adjust you'll be ok. Some people like longer, some don't. Try it before you buy it. Personally, I just never bothered. It's fine for me with standard handles. Your mileage may vary.

Shanti and Laser Pro are the way to go.

Welcome to the forum. Shanti and Laser Pro are your best bet.

Excellent acquisition. I know where you got that!

If you like flying quad kites and don't lose interest, you will soon have more kites than you need. But you will have what you need to fly in any wind. Don't worry about it. It will just happen. I have 14 Rev-style quad kites, 5 sets of handles, at least 7 line sets in various length and strength, 4 extra frames, and a $200 bag to hold it all. I don't have very many kites, compared to others. Just enough to make sure that when I get to the field, no matter what the conditions are, I can fly.

You can find screws at most hardware stores that have no thread at least 1/4" down the shank from the head with no problem, and definitely find the anchors that have the flange at one end. Panhead screws are ok, but may have a bit of a rough edge. I prefer the beveled countersink head type. If you can't find them in a kit/prepack buy them separately. These items literally cost pennies each. Get the right stuff and make the job easy. Carefully remove the burr on the outside of the handle tube and don't worry about the inside. Any rough edge or surface on the inside will hold the anchor better and if it doesn't want to fit easily just force it in. You'll need to poke a new hole in each vinyl tip cover and fish the leader through. If you like you can use sacrificial loops to which you attach the leaders. This way if there's any rough spots the loops will take the wear and your leaders will stay untouched. I always did both top and bottom of each handle. Doing the top is not necessary, but it does look better, and there is zero chance of the tops snagging if done. You can do two sets of handles, both tops and bottoms, for less than $10 if you look for loose screws and anchors, and get the job done in less than an hour, so there's no reason you shouldn't. You'll love the performance of your new snagless handles. There are solid aluminum no snag handles available for purchase if you prefer and don't mind spending money. I purchased some from one of the IKE club members who used to make them, after I had modified the first two original sets I had, and I must admit I like them more than the modded ones.

Cut a piece of cardboard into the shape you want. Bend the cardboard into the shape you want. Push a skewer through the cardboard at the point you want. Fasten a second skewer at 90 degrees to the first skewer to both the first skewer and the cardboard at the point you want.