Wayne Dowler

Amy??

Sorry - but I've flown with Paul and for sure very talented - but to say he knows it all might be stretching it some! That's what I love about the Rev game - it's a never ending learning experience!

You knew that the lines were equalized as you unwrapped them?? HOW? I've seen brand new factory lines off as much as 3"!! Try this procedure and be absolutely sure: Put all 4 line loops on a common point (a nail on a post or a stake on the beach). Run out the lines and get them untangled. Put your handles on and reasonably pull tight. The handles should match up. If one is tilted, figure out which is the longest and shorten till all 4 are as close to the same length as possible. Do the adjusting by untying the knots in the sleeving, pull the line through a bit, and retie the knots. Takes a bit of trial and error effort, but you can get them really close. The purpose: an off length line will cause the kite to steer itself. Sort of like if your alignment is off on your car, or you put one 15" tire on with 3 13" tires. You'll be constantly having to compensate for the "off" tire. Take it from me - check your lines for equal - yourself!!!!

That Prusik(sp) knot is for locking in your adjustments on the bridle. It actually uses some of the bridle line to help form it and hold it in place. Try this - grab the bridle on both sides of the knot and pull. The knot if done right, should loosen up and be movable. There should be marks on the bridle that are the adjustment range for the kite. Move both sides to the same position relative to the marks. Be sure to milk the knot back down to the same shape it was in to start , it should end up looking like a smooth double loop with the bridle trapped inside. if it isn't smooth, pull the bridle again to loosen and try again.

Is the folding causing any cracks down the seam it makes or is it just cosmetic? I only flew one back in June, haven't used one since. And those testers Andy gave us looked new. Long term testing needs to be done to give a real opinion on durability, etc. Also would really like to know how that Freilein fabric holds up next to the nylon Rev is using in their cheaper models.

Equalizing lines, longer top leaders, - all help! Single best piece of advice I can give - Learn to "Give to the Kite"! What do I mean? When the kite is gonna crash - let it!!!! Step forward, in extreme cases - throw the handles at the kite! DO NOT PULL! Pulling only drives the kite harder into the ground!! Better to go and straighten up things, than to go find something broken! Throw the stated wind range out the window for learning - shoot for 6-10 mph. Less and you struggle to keep airborne, more and the kite can get out of control. 6-10 gives you a better chance to learn the controls without fighting the kite.

Different??

Latest update - Anyone else unable to get on Rev's forum? Getting a "404" error code. Had it bookmarked directly to the forum - no hookup. Don't have the address of the "new" Rev page to see if going to "community" will help. Anyone else experiencing issues?

Wonder if the tubing size is right for the "Watty" mod?

Motorcycle goggles keep sand out of the eyes. Reuse good parts of a bridle for sleeving. I use "O" rings on my rods at the ends of my end caps to keep out sand. An old bowling bag strap added to my Rev bag makes it a backpack. Forgot the ice pick I use as a stake in really hard ground. I use a set of upholstery needles and tweezers to remove knots.

also used in the guitar shops - NOS (new old stock) - as in bought new, thrown in a closet and forgotten til somebody finds it many years later.

Never have used water on mine.Thin walled tube cuts pretty fast and easy, doesn't leave too much debris. I have used a hacksaw with 32 teeth/inch (fine), taped where I planned to cut, gently sanded after cutting. Fine enough blades will do the trick, you appear to have access to something finer. Tape keeps the end from splintering. Be careful when sanding not to be so forceful as to make the tube splinter. Just wear eye protection and don't breath in the fine particles, should be OK. Unless you are cutting volumes of spars, the vac is overkill.

I'd be for adding some shrink wrap to the spar in that rub zone too! Wonder if anything has been done with the velcro on the spring end - heard of at least one instance of it coming off and getting lost! Growing pains!

Read - yes, but the kite to the left Does look like a F/V - AND THAT MAKES IT WORSE!! It would be one thing to have uneven bend in the SAME sail, but WORSE if indeed the sail was a F/V next to several mids! John's at a clinic - maybe he can clear this up later tonight!

Black was my X/V, Blue and yellow - my std, and blue and gold - my mid and full vents. Just look for my hat!!

WHOA!! I knew there was something different - but that much?? Hold on to the "vintage" rods as long as you can!!!

I like to call them - GL rods - green label. So far I only have 1 set of them - diamonds - and only use them in my SUL on windless days. My whole team uses them in theirs, but only for that purpose - low winds. I even reinforce them with "magic sticks" to lessen their flex. But they are an option ....... Personally, I like a race frame in my std and mid, 3 wrap in my F/V, and green race in my X/V. Frankenframe in the Zen! But these setups are what I like - YMMV!!

Glad to have helped him in choices. For the money - I feel it's a very good kite. Impressed me! Also plan to be at WSIKF all week - look me up - I'm in the blue hat with goggles on! Be glad to help with whatever he needs help on!

OMG......!!!

Just be sure they aren't SLE rods ........

Black race is about the weight of a 2 wrap, but strong as 3 wrap. But it has a different flex to it. Some like it, some don't, it really is up to your style of flying. It can replace a 2 wrap in your quiver. Green race is the weight of 3 wrap, but strength of 4 wrap. It also has a different flex and unlike the black, a bit mushy on return. But they are sooo strong!! I use them in my X/V pretty much full time! These could replace a 4 wrap for you. Just be aware that either race frame is a specialty item and costs more than any wrap frame.

2, 3, 4 wraps are marked for strength too. Bigger number is stronger, less flexible. Most use the smallest number for light winds, bigger for heavy. I might clarify too - all the "wrap" rods do have similar flex characteristics, but get stronger, stiffer as you go up in number.

Yep they do and made by the same gent that made the Rev "B" Pros!!

Considering that they are no longer being made explains that! Not many will part with their Pros, if there isn't something to replace them! I've gotten the chance to fly the Freilein - stock frame felt a little sluggish to me. T- 2 was the factory marking. Ended up putting my Rev race frame in it and felt it come alive! I keep hearing things like "the rods are stiff but lighter" , but that may not be what is needed. I've no direct comparison for what the T-2 rods equal in Rev rods, just know they felt too stiff for me. But from what I understand, the QC is more stringent, meaning less variance in weights between sticks of the same type.

Possible he didn't understand the "karma" logistics and not realize he needed to offer something up??