Wayne Dowler

It's a personal feel thing IMHO! Some like it, some don't! It does suit specific conditions very well, that I will admit. I'd have to spend a lot of time to tell how much, since I'm used to the stock setup. It's always a question of what you are looking for in characteristics.

Don't have any first hand experience with this type of kite - but you might try this company on FB Buffalo Cody Kite CompanyThey might have some info that can help!

Rev 1 used to come standard with 11" handles (still got mine)! Rev II came with 9" (still got those too)! Circa 1997-8. The race frame works good, but keep an eye on the LE. Too much bend and you'll want to put a stronger frame up. Remember - you've got a 9' wing out there!!

Either make the leaders to make up the difference or get a new style bridle and just keep the old one for history. One set of longer leaders will do for all the equal line sets, if you go that route! I think I remember helping someone with an old Rev !, we got it flying with newer lines by pulling the bottoms as far in as we could, and letting the tops out all the way. Depends on if you have long top leaders!

Russell - are you on FB?? I made a page for local Portland fliers to post things about coming events, schedules, etc! Even just planned outings to invite others to them! It's called the Portland Area Kite Flyers page! It's closed to the public, but if you let me know about your interest here, I'll look for your request over there.

Last year at the festivals I attended, I probably gave out over 300 cards to "interested" spectators. I can't count but one for sure that has caught the kiting bug. Everybody seems to love watching, but few are willing to put the time in that pays off in any real ability to get control of the kite! Yes, I make it look easy, but I also spent many hours to gain that control! How many are willing to spend that much time or energy??

This has a bit of "throwback" to it - LOUD!! Nice prize!!

Congrats!!

Nitpicking, but you do realize the vertical rods for both Revs are on the wrong side?? They belong on the back.

Yes 2 straps are the bomb!! As a bowler I had several straps laying around, just added one to my Rev bag. Now I can carry my bag like a backpack - up and down - and leave my hands free for other stuff! Plus if you wrap them back around the bag, the 2 straps give you 1 handle for 1 handed carry.

Don't know the line lengths you're using, but have you seen the Windbreaker winder? When I was flying SLKs a lot, I bought one and then made several interior sections, based off the original design. One set of handles - 3 guts allowing different lengths, or strengths! Reef Runner's pic is the closest to that design, but the Windbreaker has movable handles to several positions. I really liked the windbreaker for the ability to haul kites down in a hurry, even a French Military kite and a good sized delta. No worries of it ever breaking down either!

Now those look good! But what do they cost? The ITW 48" bag is only $40.00 if you can get it locally, +s/h if mailed.

Got a Rev friend that has used an ITW bag for several years and it is so much better. Better made, better material, better features. HQ bags have no where near the same strength!

Congrats Nick!

Gotta go check this back out!! I had much the same questions as Mark and you've answered those!! More time drain!!!!

Look on YouTube under the name Morgan Boulette to see some videos of the field! Morgan is a beginner to indoor flying, oops even outdoor!! But he does great photos and videos! Most show me either flying my Rev or his!

Sleeving was used to increase the knot strength in Spectra fiber lines. Some feel it still has a need, some do away with it altogether. Pretty sure any improvements in the line have lessened the need, but many still use it out of habit. I personally use sleeving on almost all my sets, except one outdoor and my indoor set. I tie a small cheater tab into my loops (all sets) for easy adjustment or breakdown. Since I make most of my sets, I use the core from the bridle line I use for sleeves, as tab material.I just make a small loop of core line and double larkshead it onto the loop. Then retie into the length I want, cut and burn the ends I use a "Sharpie" to code my lines, easy to use and easy to reuse if needed. For SLKs, the line is not as important as it is for your quad. Remember you are winding the quad up with wraps and still need to maintain control. As long as you feel the SLK's line is strong enough, it will do. But good quality line on your quad is a necessity!

The only colored line I know of that's available now is Shanti Skybond. It is a yellow line, coated, slippery, handles well on the sand, seems to have pretty good longevity. Not sure if there are any from Europe or overseas. Skybond is available in 50, 100, 175. 250, and 350# strengths from AWOC. Most Rev fliers use either 50# or 100# sets depending on winds!

Sahweettt!!

Using 2 winders will work fine - many use that way to stop tangles. Using one winder with quad lines does take 2 things - practice and repeat-ability. Doing it over and over in the same way, helps it become habit. To me that's the key - doing it the same way - every time! Once you find a method that works, always do it the same way! Unless I buy bulk spools and have a short line set figured in, I cut down old or broken sets. Break an 80' set, make 50' and 30' sets from it. Get the most from what I have that way. I don't mix old and new lines in one set. As was said, old lines will wear the new lines faster than new on new. I prefer to have all my sets age at the same rate! Never have used the fishing line thing and definitely not to be used in a group of fliers.

Yeah Terry!!

Were the lines tangled as you were setting up?? IF you follow John's method, you should at worst have maybe a twist or two in the set and maybe some in each individual handle. I use his method with a few minor changes and never have had any issues! My minor changes: I stake out my handles separately (requires 2 stakes). Set the handles a foot apart and stake them down (this helps later). Hook up the lines to the handles and unwind the lines, (if you can, try keeping a finger between the two sets). Got them unwound, take a pair in each hand and spread your arms as far apart as you can. Sometimes you can see if they are twisted at all and undo them at this step, but the spreading of the arms takes all the false twists out and makes any left, pretty easy to handle. This makes sense with my color combo code and I even go so far as to mark my handles as left and right, so to hook them up properly. Just my way, but thought you could use some of the ideas to help you.

Do not sand the outsides past the point of removing more than the clear finish!!! Removing black material means you are starting to remove wrapping material! You're compromising the rod's integrity. Any tube shape is very strong until that shape is messed with in any way. Rob is right - the actual difference between any rod combo is almost negligible. We regularly use a mix of different rods and have noticed no problems. In my Zen I've used a mixed frame in the leading edge for over a year now and noticed no issues. Even in my SUL which has a lighter material pocket, again using mixed rods has caused no problems over a 4-5 year period.

"Dashes my illusions of free travel and sudden decisions!!"

I'll go if you can supply the transporter!!!!!